Low country highlights

11:31am Tuesday 22nd April 2008

By Nick Elvin

It may seem tucked away in the north of the Netherlands, far from all the action, but that has perhaps been a benefit to Groningen.

This city of less than 200,000 has retained its own character. It's a very Dutch city - an old inland port where old boats laze on canals, and people laze in cafés in town squares.

Groningen's historic buildings have been largely kept intact, so it's certainly an attractive city at almost every turn - just see the 15th century Martini Tower or the 17th century university for example.

Its status as a university city gives Groningen a buzzing nightlife. You could spend weeks on a pub crawl here, soaking up all the excellent beers and great atmosphere of the 200 or so bars.

It's also a city where the bicycle is definitely king of the road. That's understandable - in Groningen a seven metre rise is called a hill, so if you can ride there's no excuse for not getting on your bike. Just keep your wits about you and remember to keep to the right. What's more, thanks to the relative closeness of the sea and countryside, and few cars, the air is surprisingly clean.

Despite being in a country with a high population density, the city of Groningen has a definite boundary - no sprawling suburbs here. Get out into the unspoilt hinterlands and you'll be greeted by a hauntingly flat landscape broken by trees, church spires and old windmills. Enigmatic canals and irrigation channels head dead straight toward some distant dead straight horizon.

As you travel through the small towns and villages, you'll find all kinds of fascinating places, where people put a great deal of enthusiasm into their work, whatever the field.

And, if you decide to explore this level landscape by bicycle, after a day in the saddle you'll believe you can ride across the entire Netherlands. Mountain bikes not necessary.

A trip to Groningen won't leave you feeling flat.

GETTING THERE:
VLM Airlines offers six flights a week from London City to Groningen, prices from £26 one way (excl. taxes and charges). Call 0871 666 5050 or visit www.flyvlm.com
From the airport there is a direct bus (number 52) to Groningen. A one way ticket costs 2.30 euros. A taxi costs 30 euros and takes about 15 minutes.

TOURIST INFORMATION:
For information about Groningen, log on to the Marketing Groningen website or www.holland.com. Groningen's tourist information office is located in the main square (Grote Markt). Tel: + 31 (0)900-202 3050. An interactive map of the city can be found by clicking HERE.

ACCOMODATION:
Hotel de Doelen, in the Grote Markt has rooms from 80 euros (single) / 100 euros (double). Tel: +31 (0)50 312 7041.
The Asgard Hotel, in the quieter Ganzevoortsingel, is something of a design concept, with rooms built using durable materials such as wood and steel. It's comfortable nonetheless and prices start at 95 euros / 125 euros. Tel: + 31 (0)50 313 8387.
The centrally-located Hotel Friesland has simple but comfortable rooms from 35 euros / 55 euros.
You can book accommodation through the Marketing Groningen website.

GETTING AROUND:
The best way to explore the city is by bicycle. The tourist information office has route maps, while cycles are available from the main railway station. In fact, if the amount of bikes on the street doesn't convince you of the city's love of cycling, check out the purpose built storage area at the station, which houses about 6,000 bicycles. Guided cycling tours are available, usually lasting 2.5 hours and costing 15 euros including bike hire, through Fietsstad Groningen +31 (0)50 301 1881, or ask at the tourist office.

SIGHTS:
Groningen is more than 900 years old and probably its best-known landmark is the 15th century Martini Tower, (Martinitoren), located in one corner of the Grote Markt. The tower is part of the Martinikerk (Martini Church). It's a long walk up the tower's claustrophobic, winding staircase, but there are plenty of places to stop on the way up, both inside and outside. The views across the city are stunning, while you can also see the inner workings of the tower including plenty of bells. The Martini Tower has nothing to do with alcoholic beverages, but after tackling this 97-metre high test of stamina and vertigo, you may just want one. Tickets are 3 euros, children 4-11: 2 euros.

Around town you'll find small gems, for example a series of old almshouses, including the Sint Anthony Gasthuis and Geertruirs Gasthuis. They housed the mentally ill, plague victims and the elderly. Today they are oases of tranquillity which command high house prices - largely due to the charming courtyards they are built around.

Located opposite the main railway station, the multicoloured masterpiece of the Groninger Museum houses equally striking exhibitions, including work by local artists, and art and artefacts from around the world. Tickets: 10 euros, children 12-15: 5 euros, under 11s free.

Away from the city centre, the Wall House is a concept house built on either side of a large concrete wall. It was designed by American architect John Hejduk and meant for two people. When Hejduk died in 2000 without seeing his design realised, the city of Groningen decided to have it built in the Netherlands. From the outside, the house's four rooms appear to be pods, colour coded by their function. Inside, windows are placed at different heights, so for example you can look up at the sky, down into the garden, or across into neighbouring houses. Some windows give a lovely view of nearby Hoornse Meer lake.
The house is today managed by the Foundation Wall House and regularly has artists in residence. You can make an appointment to visit - tickets are 4.50 euros for adults, 2 euros for children. To get there, if you don't cycle, take bus number 6 from Groningen's central rail station to the suburb of Hoornse Meerwijk.

EATING OUT:
If you only try one dish while in Groningen, then it must be mustard soup. It's a local dish whose ingredients include mustard, cream, stock, leek and bacon, and it's available in most restaurants.

't Feith Huis, in Martinikerkhof, is a good option for lunch. It does a "hangover special" breakfast, which even includes an aspirin. Sample prices: bagels from 5.20 euros, club sandwich 7.90 euros, mustard soup 4.50 euros.

Het Goudkantoor is a charming restaurant located in the historic former Gold Office, which was built in 1635 and originally used as a tax collection office for the area. It's located in Waagplein, close to the Grote Market. Starters from around 5 euros, mains 15 euros. Mustard soup 4.80 euros.

NIGHTS OUT:
Groningen's bars have no set closing time, and because of the large student population in the city, there are around 200 bars. About 20 of these are all located in the massive De Drie Gezusters (The Three Sisters) pub, in Grote Markt. Whether you want a quiet drink or a crowded dancefloor, it's got it. Three Sisters may have the size, but the Wolthoorn pub has been voted the Netherlands' best pub. Its unique and convivial atmosphere, and an excellent selection of beers, will soon convince you.

AROUND GRONINGEN:

PIETERBUREN:
The village of Pieterburen, 30km north of Groningen, is best known as the home of the Seal Rehabilitation and Research Centre. Here seals are brought to recover from illness and injury caused by hazards such as fishing nets and lines, ship propellers, and pollution.
The inspirational Lenie 't Hart began work more than 35 years ago in her back garden before setting up a state-of-the-art seal hospital that includes quarantine rooms, rehabilitation pools, and specialist vets. The centre conducts research into vaccines, and staff also travel to help out with oil spills and other threats to seals internationally.
Guided tours are available, and there are permanent exhibitions, and of course lots of cute sea lions. Tickets: 3 euros, children up to 3 free.

EENRUM:
The Groningen area is known for its mustard manufacture. There's even a factory making Dijon mustard - which is shipped to Dijon. However, the small village of Eenrum is home to a producer on a smaller scale. Abraham's Mustard Makers produces a selection of delicious (and very strong) mustards, including grainy plain mustard, garlic mustard and honey mustard. You can learn all about the fascinating traditional process for making mustard - except for the Abraham's secret spice recipe, that is. There is also an excellent restaurant, which of course serves mustard soup. Entry: 2 euros, children up to 12: 1.25 euros.

If you fancy staying over in Eenrum, and are looking for somewhere quiet, the Grand Hotel de Kromme Raake could be just the place. This is the smallest hotel in the world, according to Guinness World Records. 150 euros will get you and your significant other a night in a cosy little place which boasts a living room, a box bed, bathroom (with a large bath) and a small kitchen. The reception has only one key hanging up. Most people stay one night, but you should try to avoid weekends as they tend to be booked up for months ahead.

WOLTHOORN:
Like the English, the Dutch are partial to a cuppa. At Theefabriek, a tea museum and factory in the village of Wolthoorn, you can learn about the tea-making process, as well as its origins and trade.
The building, a former church, was bought 20 years ago for the princely sum of one gilder. All that prospective owners had to do was submit a proposal. A group of young people put forward their idea for Theefabriek and, to their surprise, won. Today, Theefabriek produces 300 types of tea from across the globe, which are also sold in the shop along with all the tea paraphernalia you need to make and serve the perfect cup. You can enjoy tea, along with pastries and sandwiches, impeccably served in the teahouse. If you want to enjoy a truly high tea, climb the stairs to the top of the church tower, where a table for two (there's room for little else) offers rather pleasant views over the surrounding countryside. Many marriage proposals have been made up here, over a pot of char.
The owners believe that since Theefabriek opened, more people than ever in the Netherlands are choosing loose tea over tea bags, and many more varieties are being enjoyed. Entry: Tickets 2.50 euros, children 4-12: 1.50 euros, children up to three free, over 65s 2 euros. Cream tea 8.50 euros.

NIENOORD COUNTRY ESTATE:
Nienoord, near the town of Leek, just west of Groningen, is home to the National Coach Museum, which houses 250 carriages and sleighs dating from the 18th to 20th centuries. They were owned by all kinds of people, from farmers through to nobility, and include examples from the Dutch and Belgian royal families.

You can also see the large freezer in which carriages are disinfected when they first arrive. It's an eco friendly way to kill off moths, woodworm and other carriage eaters. Tickets are 5 euros for adults, children up to 17 free.

Centrepiece of the estate is the magnificent 19th century mansion Borg Nienoord, which is surrounded by pleasant parkland. Borg Nienoord is home to a restaurant which may be one of the most stunning places you'll ever eat.

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